DIY How To Sew Patches!

This was originally published by Modern Moto Magazine. Patches shown in the instructions are different.

Fashion and motorcycles are both vehicles of self-expression. Riding around here in Oakland I love seeing iconic MC’s rock their motifs. The culture has evolved to be more inclusive and accepted, so let your personality shine! Whether you collect patches for your denim jacket or want to customize your riding jacket, let’s sew! 

DO NOT IRON LEATHER. DO NOT IRON CORDURA/KEVLAR GEAR. 

I’ve developed two projects: 

All Levels

Machine Stitching Denim Jacket

Tools: sewing machine, denim needles (14-16 gauge), thread. 

Don’t have a sewing machine ? Use hand sewing technique below. 

Intermediate

Leather Hand Sewing

Tools: Leather hand sewing needles (2), heavy duty thread, thimble and/or scrap of leather, beeswax, needle nose pliers

Placement Considerations

Symmetrical v. asymmetrical look 

Focal point; single focus v. collage look 

Color schemes

Personal style & skill level 

Machine Stitching Denim Jacket 

1. Pin or tape the patch in place. Use tape for leather. Don’t sew through tape.  Optional: If your patch has fusible backing (glue) press the patch on with a hot iron. Use a press cloth. Do not use a hot iron on leather. 

Machine Stitch 

1. Install denim needle and the ZIPPER foot. Stitch length of 3 - 4, needle position to far right. Stitch a test and adjust thread tension if needed (consult your manual). 
2. Place your work on the machine, align the edge of zipper foot with the border of the patch. Begin stitching, do not back stitch. When you reach a corner; put the needle down into the work, raise presser foot, turn the garment. Use the needle as your pivot point. 
3. Finish: as you approach the starting point, line up the needle with the line of stitching then overlap 5-10 stitches. Voila! 

Leather Hand Sewing

1. Thread your needle with a single thread and coat with beeswax. Place tools immediately within reach. 
2. First & last stitch: Take one ⅛” to ¼” stitch into the leather to secure the thread. Then insert needle through back of patch, pulling needle to the front side. Now you can see the thread. 
3. We’re doing the “backstitch.” Move needle backwards (to the right) ⅛” inch, insert needle down into both the patch and leather. 
4. The needle is now under the leather. Take a stitch by moving forward (left) ½” to ⅝” inch. Use the needle tip to pull leather away from lining. Use the thimble like a shield on your forefinger. Pinch the leather slightly and push the needle & thread through. 
5. To push the needle, use your thimble or leather scrap to protect your finger. Alternatively, grab the needle with your pliers, push or pull as needed. Experiment; personally I push the needle with my leather scrap, then pull through with pliers. 
6. Last stitch, same method at the first. Plus tie a knot or two. Use the needle tip to push the knot snug up against the leather. Leave at least 6” of thread to tie a knot. 

Tips: 

Thread two needles. 

Don’t make the thread longer than your forearm. 

Start at a midpoint rather than the top or bottom of your patch to prevent puckers. 

Stuff crumpled newspaper into the back protector pocket of the jacket to separate the layers. 

Note: 

Yes there are tailors who can open jacket and stitch patches on. We are not opening the jacket lining up, please don’t try that on your own.

DO NOT IRON LEATHER. DO NOT IRON CORDURA/KEVLAR GEAR. 

DO NOT IRON LEATHER. DO NOT IRON CORDURA/KEVLAR GEAR. 

DO NOT IRON LEATHER. DO NOT IRON CORDURA/KEVLAR GEAR. 

DO NOT IRON LEATHER. DO NOT IRON CORDURA/KEVLAR GEAR. 

DO NOT IRON LEATHER. DO NOT IRON CORDURA/KEVLAR GEAR. 

DO NOT IRON LEATHER. DO NOT IRON CORDURA/KEVLAR GEAR. 

DO NOT IRON LEATHER. DO NOT IRON CORDURA/KEVLAR GEAR. 

DO NOT IRON LEATHER. DO NOT IRON CORDURA/KEVLAR GEAR. 

Unfortunately if you iron your motorcycle gear; melting, burning, and destruction will ensue. I hear you say, "But it's abrasion resistant! It's bullet proof! Why will an iron melt it ?" These textiles are nylon and polyester based. They will melt before the adhesive backing reaches it's melting point. Leather is skin. Do you want to touch that hot iron plate ? Heck no!

If you are a professional stitcher you know how to deal with this. This is for average home sewer. Sew on!